Was Gelsenkirchen Really that Bad?

Yes, it was shockingly bad for the England vs Serbia match at the beginning of the tournament. From the moment we got to the main station, the local volunteers did not really know where to send England fans on their way to their allocated fanzone at the old race track. The confusion was palpable, and the frustration among fans started to build.

Luckily for my three friends and me, we got out of the fanzone early to head to the Arena auf Schalke. It wasn’t terrible just yet, but definitely showing more signs of trouble ahead as our trams repeatedly got delayed with too many fans trying to get into the limited amount of trams taking people from the city into the stadium. The tram situation was exacerbated by a lack of clear information and the sheer volume of fans descending on the area, leading to overcrowded platforms and a mounting sense of chaos.

After the match, it was rather a scene from a horror movie, or should I say, zombie apocalypse. People stood for hours and hours… 3-hours in most cases as they tried to get out of the arena in trams that could barely hold a couple of kindergarten groups. The frustration spilled over into altercations amongst fans trying to find a spot on the trams to not be left behind. The disorganization was startling, and the lack of adequate transport planning became glaringly obvious.

Needless to say, I myself needed four hours to get from Gelsenkirchen to Bochum where I was staying the night. Promising myself never to come back to Gelsenkirchen no matter what other football event might be there in the future (that of course won’t hold as every wound heals eventually!). The experience left a sour taste and raised questions about Germany's readiness to handle such a large influx of football fans.

Berlin, My Home Turf

After the nightmare in Gelsenkirchen, I was relieved to have a string of matches in my home stadium. Hertha BSC’s Olympiastadion might not be the traditional football stadium, but it is full of sporting history. It’s where Zinedine Zidane headbutted Marco Materazzi! The historical significance of the stadium added a layer of excitement and nostalgia to the matches held there.

Speaking of history, the stadium has hosted numerous historic football matches that include the annual DFB Pokal Finals, the 2006 World Cup Final, and the 2015 UEFA Champions League final to name a few. With that history also comes the experience of moving people with its rail and underground system that easily help 74,000 fans get to and from the stadium in Berlin. The efficient transport network in Berlin is a testament to the city's experience in hosting large-scale events.

As expected, everything went smoothly during the four matches I saw in Berlin. The trains were punctual, the platforms well-marked, and the overall experience seamless. It was a stark contrast to the chaos in Gelsenkirchen and demonstrated how effective planning and infrastructure could enhance the fan experience.

Intercity Express - Experiencing the Best of the German Rail System

The Deutsche Bahn is notorious for being late and for having trains that break a little too often. This constantly draws the ire of the German public on normal days. I was expecting the worst of the rail system as I traveled to destinations in Gelsenkirchen and Leipzig. The reputation of the Deutsche Bahn often precedes it, and I braced myself for potential delays and disruptions.

However, I was lucky enough to have had the smoothest rides on all of my journeys as I met friends on our way to the matches this year. The trains ran on time, were clean, and provided a comfortable travel experience. Meeting fellow fans on the train added to the camaraderie and excitement of traveling to the matches.

Hands down, the Deutsche Bahn was still the most affordable and environmentally friendly way to travel. When running well and uninterrupted, I would argue that there is simply no reason to bring a car to the football matches. The convenience and sustainability of rail travel make it an attractive option for fans looking to minimize their carbon footprint.

Is it getting better?

Germany’s “failure” in getting fans around was a one-off hiccup instead of the doom and gloom reports that came out of the English press from Gelsenkirchen’s debacle. However, it is true that Germany’s public transport setup is far from perfect. The Deutsche Bahn’s reputation of German efficiency outside the country’s borders was put in question as its aging infrastructure, unreliable trains, and non-punctual trains were exposed. These issues justify the roughly 12 billion Euro investment in infrastructure as reported by German news outlet Tagesschau.

From a football fan’s perspective who went on roughly 10 away days all over the country last season, navigating the Deutsche Bahn is part of the German football experience. Overcoming the different hurdles it throws is a part of a successful away day anyways. Despite the challenges, the sense of adventure and the shared experiences with fellow fans make the journey an integral part of the footballing experience.

Photos courtesy of Andrew Santos.